Archives for March 2011

Ice Hotel is so Cool!!!

March 29, 2011 by

We arrived in Kiruna and took a quick 15 minute bus ride to Jukkasjarvi, home of the famous Ice Hotel in Sweden, the original and largest in the world.   When we arrived, they showed us our warm locker space to keep our luggage during our stay in the cold accommodations.   We are booked for one night in the  cold rooms made entirely of ice and one night in the warm rooms.   There is an area called the dressing room where you get changed for the night and can shower and warm up in the sauna and then when you are ready to go to bed, they give you warm sleeping bags which you lay on the reindeer skin on your bed.  There are briefings throughout the day and they explain how to sleep safely and warmly in the freezing rooms.  Ninety percent of the ice hotel is built from the water from the Torne River out back.  There are tours that explain the history and making of the ice hotel which is quite interesting.

During the day, the ice hotel is open to the public to come tour and take pictures of the various suites and rooms until 6pm and then it is exclusively for the hotel guests to enjoy.  You can go for dinner at one of their two restaurants, have a drink in the ice bar in an ice glass or partake in one of the many activities like snowmobiling or dog sledding to see the northern lights.  Tomorrow we’ll go meet some reindeer and go for a reindeer ride and have an opportunity to feed  them. One can spend all days just looking at the different art sculptures that make up the ice hotel.  Each suite and room is carved and decorated by an individual or group of artists.  Many couples get married in  the Ice Church right inside the hotel.  I met one couple from the states who was getting married today and while the bride was probably very cold taking pictures in her wedding dress, I’m sure it was well worth the beautiful shots they’ll get!

It’s almost time for bed, but first I’m going to head out and see if there is a sighting of the Northern Lights tonight.  Then it’s time to strip down to my sexy thermals and slip into the sleeping bag.  They say you can get one of your best night’s sleep here, so I’m looking forward to a peaceful slumber and a wakeup call with warm lingonberry juice.  As of tonight, the connection is a little tough so I’m having trouble uploading more fascinating pictures, but will do so soon!

Filed Under: Destinations, Scandinavia Tagged With: ,

Stockholm: A City for Everyone

March 29, 2011 by

We just spent three days in Stockholm and back at Arlanda airport, we are waiting for our SAS flight up to Kiruna to visit the Ice Hotel. Our three day stay in Stockholm was filled with a great mix of culture, nightlife, shopping and a relaxation. In the vibrant city of Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, there is plenty to do for people of various tastes and interests. With over 70 museums, you can easily spend your days learning about Swedish history and culture. One of the most popular museums is the Vasa, home of the world famous warship lost in 1628 and salvaged in 1961 and on display with tours offered throughout the day. It’s just a short ferry ride form the island of Skeppsholmen or a tram ride from the center of town. The National and Modern museum near and in Skeppsholmen are fun to check out as is the small, but interesting Nobel Museum in Old Town. Also, in Old Town, be sure to check out the Royal Palace and the unique boutiques as you stroll along the cobblestone streets.  Enjoy lunch at a quaint café and dinner by candlelight. We had lunch at the cozy Café Kaffekoppen and had a delicious coffee and hot chocolate, a perfect respite from the cold day and I had a salmon and spinach quiche. Dinner was at a Gyldene Freden in Old Town where the food and ambiance were perfect.

There are many sides of Stockholm, from the posh shopping district of Biblioteksgatan, the nightlife of Stureplan to the artsy section known as SoFo on the south island of Sodermalm. If you like independent boutiques and vintage, Swedish design, this is the place to check out and definitely a nice contrast from the other shopping district.  There are also plenty of supermarkets and health food stores. If you are in Sweden on a Saturday night, Sturecompagniet is a legendary and popular nightclub playing great dance music with multiple levels of dance floors and bars. There are many nightclubs and bars in the area, so you can hop from one to another, but lines can get long at some of the more popular clubs. Also in this area is the Spa at Sturebadet. If you’re looking for a little R and R or a good workout, you can get a day pass and enjoy the wonderful spa’s pool, gym, sauna, steam room, aroma therapy room and exercise classes. You can also relax with one of the many spa treatments offered and rent out the Turkish bath. For a nice view of the entire city, and a short subway ride from Sturelpan, head over to the Globe and take a ride up the largest spherical building in the world with Skyview. 

We did not have one bad meal while in Stockholm and one place definitely worth checking out for lunch is Lisa Elmquist in Ostermalms Saluhall. Saluhall is a bustling market consisting on many fish, meat and pasty stalls and the food at Lisa Elmquist was amazing!  It was a great introduction to Sweden’s traditional food including salmon, bleak roe, shrimp and crayfish. Their display of fresh fish was very enticing and if we were still hungry after their generous starter plate, we would have ordered more! A great place for dinner which offers a nice chef’s tasting menu of local Scandinavian food is Restaurang 1900, a modern Swedish restaurant owned by Niklas Ekstedt, a famous TV chef in Sweden. We had local  dishes of cod and oxcheek (which tasted sought of like steak!) and a starter consisting of an egg cooked at 63 degrees Celsius, which he says is the perfect temperature at which to cook at egg. I couldn’t argue with that after trying it!

While there are land tours offered throughout Stockholm, you should also take one by boat to see the archipelagos. The tour we took was the ‘Winter Tour of Stockholm” which gave us a good view of Stockholm from the water. However, if you visit over the summer, the tour is longer and you can really enjoy the archipelagos of Stockholm. Some people will even stay on one for a few days to totally disconnect and relax.

Stockholm’s character reminded me a lot of New York City with lots of public transportation, making it easy to explore different parts of the city with the subway, bus or train. Cabs are also always available but can be pricey, so be prepared to do a lot of walking as well. It’s a good way to burn off all the great bread you will eat before and during your meals!  Check out this video with Gabriela, certified tour guide for Stockholm.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoC0bYTOZGw

Filed Under: Destinations, Scandinavia Tagged With: , ,

Hotel Skeppsholmen: Contemporary and Comfortable!

March 28, 2011 by

We landed in Stockholm at 7:30am Saturday morning, took the Arlanda Express train (around $20) and then transferred to the number 65 bus ($5) en route to Hotel Skeppsholmen, a Swedish design hotel on the island of Skeppsholmen, one of the 14 islands that make up the city of Stockholm.  This would be our home for the next few days.  You never know what your hotel may look like in European or Scandinavian countries.  Some can be small and intimate, so I went in with very low expectations and was very pleasantly surprised!  The building is from 1699 but the interior is completely modern and decorated by Stockholm based architects Claesson Koivisto Rune with free wireless internet throughout.  The hotel has an upscale look and feel, but also one of comfort, easy to make home for as long as you are in Stockholm. It is not in the main square, but only about a 15 minute walk from some of the main attractions and very well worth it.   It is surrounded by the Museum of Modern Art and the Swedish Museum of Architecture.  They serve a delicious breakfast buffet each morning of various breads with fruits and seeds, lox, yogurts, your traditional eggs, bacon and a cinnamon french toast cut up in little pieces plus a variety of granola and  cereals.  With a variety of juices, teas and coffee, it’s the perfect way to start off your day.

I particularly love the beds and bathroom in our spacious contemporary room.  The beds are very soft and easy to fall and stay asleep in and the bathroom, very clean and modern.  The sink is one I’ve never seen before with a rock over the drain.  The water falls onto the rock and drains off the sides.  Very sheek!  The rooms are lit with a variety of colored lamps of various shapes and sets the tone for a relaxing and pleasant stay after a long day of sightseeing.

Hotel Skeppsholmen is a luxury urban oasis and I would highly recommend it for it’s contemporary look, feel, and design, very friendly and helpful staff, it’s clean rooms and terrific breakfasts and dinners.   For dinner last night, we had the amazing Swedish meatballs (how can you come to Sweden and not have them?! ) and a fish casserole filled with salmon, cod and root vegetables.  It definitely gets an A+ all around.

Filed Under: Destinations, Scandinavia Tagged With: , ,

Scandinavian Airlines: Comfort and Relaxation

March 28, 2011 by

We left from Newark Friday evening on a 7pm flight and landed in Stockholm 7.5 hours later after a very smooth flight on Scandinavian Airlines (SAS).   I knew it was going to be important to sleep on the flight since we were going to hit the ground running with a tour as soon as we landed in Stockholm, which was five hours ahead (6 hours ahead on Saturday with turning the clocks ahead), so I came all prepared with my fleece blanket and travel pillow, but I didn’t need to use either, as they supplied the pillows and blankets, which you may think is normal, but for many airlines, you now have to pay extra (what’s next?!)  I sat in economy extra, which was two steps down from first class (first class and business) but one step above economy, and it truly made a difference.  The seats were wider, reclined back with a footrest and had more legroom.  However, economy still looked comfortable as well with a selection of movies and entertainment.  We had movies on demand, so if you need to get up for a bit, you can pause and go back to it. The entertainment system also included many channels of music and games. I watched a great movie, ate dinner and then dozed off for a few hours before it was time for breakfast.  Dinner was a choice of tilapia and mashed potatoes or chicken and potatoes.  I chose the fish which was moist and delicious came with a yummy risotto and a lemon desert, wine and spirits.  Airline food can be hit or miss, but SAS gets a thumbs up for their food.  Breakfast was yogurt, some meats and OJ.

While some may think 7.5 hours is a long flight, it really flew by and was very comfortable.  The staff was very friendly and helpful and made sure one had everything they needed for a relaxing journey to Stockholm.  We will be using them for all the flights while here in Scandinavia.  On Tuesday, we fly from Stockholm, the capital of Sweden to Kiruna, north of Stockholm and home to the Ice Hotel.  Then it’s off to Copenhagen, Denmark for a few days.  I flew SAS to Norway last year and it’s always been a great experience.  They are known for their on time service and so far they haven’t let me down!

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