Archives for February 2012

Amsterdam: So Much More Than You Think

For years, I have heard so much about Amsterdam, but mostly just about the red  light district and the fact that you can smoke pot legally, with coffee houses offering up a menu of more than just coffee.  However, no one ever talked about the outright beauty of the city with its gorgeous canals filled with swans or the incredible architecture and array of museums.  Amsterdam really does have it all.

I got there on a Saturday night, so of course my first stop had to be the Red Light District, as I had heard so much about it.  It’s an area of a few blocks off of the China town and gay section of the city and gets its name in part because the girls are standing in doorways or windows that are lit up in red neon.  They are dressed in lingerie or in a themed outfit, like the typical schoolgirl.  I was walking around on my own, when a very funny guy from Ireland stopped me and asked if he could take my picture, as I was just taking scenery shots.  After that, we pretended to be husband and wife and do some window shopping.  Here’s a tip: comparison shop if you are interested, as not all women are willing to do the same things and the prices will vary!  Of course I had to do some research, but the research stopped there!  Aside from the window shopping you can do, there are some great bars and coffee houses and it’s just a fun area in which to go out and meet people.  Ladies, maybe you’re thinking, what is there for you there?  The answer: lots of men!

You should look into a city pass when you get off the train in central station.  The tourism and information office is right across the street and this should be your first stop.  They will answer all of your questions and sell you tickets to various tours or as I mentioned the city pass.  They sell 24, 48 and 72 hour passes and it includes entrance to many museums for free, discounts at various attractions and restaurants and even free gifts from some shops.   Plus, it comes with a transport card which entitles you to free tram service for that time period.  There are many tram lines throughout the city and they run quite often, so while it is a walking city, after a long day, you may just choose to hop on the tram to give your feet a rest.

The next day I took a canal cruise, which is a good way to see a lot of the city from the water.  Another option is a free tour that is offered twice daily at 11am and 1pm and you can meet them at either Central Station or in Dam Square.   The three hour walking tour will give you a good sense of the city.   After the canal cruise, I decided to explore on my own, and I walked through the shopping area near Dam Square and visited the Anne Frank House, which should be on the top of your list of things to see.  This museum is not included in the city pass, but the 9 Euro admission is well worth it.   You will actually walk through the house where Anne, her family, and family friends hid during the war and learn all about the family’s life and what they and other Jews went through under German control.   The museum features videos, personal commentaries from people who knew them well, entries from her diary and an easy to follow explanation of everything that happened.  Be prepared to be moved by this experience.

I spent my third day visiting some of Amsterdam’s well known markets in Albert Cuyp and Waterlooplein, what used to be the Jewish area and still houses the Jewish Museum and Portuguese Synagogue, which were also neat to see.  Be prepared to do a lot of walking, but do not fear, there are a ton of things to eat everywhere you go, from Turkish, Indonesian, and Argentinian to stands with waffles piled high with fruit and chocolate, French fries and lots of pastries.   As I said, there are a lot of museums, the most popular being the Van Gogh Museum, and museums teaching you about diamonds and genevere  If I had more time I would have visited the Heineken Experience.

When choosing a hotel, you can pretty much stay anywhere, as it is easy to get around.  However, if you plan on going out late at night, the trams do stop running shortly after midnight, so you’ll want to choose a hotel close to where you’d like to go out.  I recommend staying in either the Central Station area or Dam Square.  I stayed at the NH Hotel Museum Quarter, which was close to Leidesplein, also a popular place to go out, and home to the Holland Casino.  However,  I was pretty far from the Red Light District, and after a long night, I didn’t want to walk thirty minutes to get back.  Of course, cabs are always an option as well, but hotels are so reasonably priced, that I would just stay in a central area.  That being said, the NH Museum Quarter was a comfortable hotel and very reasonably priced.  They offer free wi-fi, but only in the lobby, which is a little bit of a drag, but for a fee, you can get it in the room as well.  They will give you a 30 minute code to use and you can get as many as you need, and being that there are so many NH hotels throughout the city, you can always pop into any one of them and hop online.  Having popped into a few of the others, the lobby and reception area looked really nice and you probably couldn’t go wrong choosing any one of them for your stay.

The city central of Amsterdam surely has enough to do to keep you busy for a few days, but I think you should also allow yourself some extra time to visit Zaanse Schans.  While it caters to tourists, it is still a fun experience to see functioning windmills, some that have been around for many years.  I went inside one that chopped wood, all powered by the wind.  Truly amazing.  There is also a clog making demonstration and a cheese demonstration with samples and the opportunity to take home some great local Holland cheese.  There are also two museums, one that shows you how the famous biscuits and chocolate are made and just the smell you inhale  walking through there is enough to make you want to have one of their chocolate bars for breakfast, as I did.

Many go to Amsterdam for a long weekend or in conjunction with a trip to other countries.   While the reputation that carries the country is mostly tied to the red light district and legalized marijuana, I can’t stress enough how beautiful and romantic the city is.  When the weather is nice, be sure to rent a bike as well and drive around the city and countryside, but make sure you know the rules because those cyclists mean business!

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I Love Paris Anytime!

As soon as I saw the Eiffel tower from atop the hill of Sacré-Couer I felt the magic of the city.  I asked myself if it was just because I knew Paris was supposed to be romantic, but that wasn’t it.  I really felt the magic and I looked at the Eiffel Tower all lit up that first night and it never got old.  My view from the hotel room was spectacular and when I got up real close to it, I felt saw its magnitude.  I asked a guy who has lived in the city for ten years if he still feels like it’s romantic or if he is just used to it and even he said that he still feels it everyday and knows it’s a great city in which to live.  I was there last when I was 21 and I  definitely have a new perspective of it now.  At first we were just going to go for a night or two on the way to the Amsterdam, but I’m so glad we decided to extend our stay another day.  You definitely cannot do Paris in a day, but if you map out your journey and you’d like to just get a feel for the various neighborhoods, it can be done.   I like to meet the locals when I go to a new city.  I feel like they have the best insight into what one should see and do and what better way to do this than through an online dating site?!  Obviously Paris has some pretty spectacular and world renowned museums, but I’m not a huge museum person and I always feel guilty for saying so.  However, I really liked what he had to say.  To him, Paris is a museum in and of itself.   I am the type of traveler who likes exploring neighborhoods, eating the local food, and spending time with people who live there.  Therefore, on the first day, we took a river cruise with the company Bateaux-Mouches down the Seine to get a quick overview of the lay of the land as we sailed past the most popular museums and monuments.  This company offers both sightseeing as well as lunch and dinner tours in five different languages.

On the second day, I started in the Marais area and walked for hours, exploring all of the major sights, shopping and eating quarters by foot.    Even though as I mentioned I am not a big museum person, I did make the obligatory visit to see the Mona Lisa at the Louvre. It is a magnificent museum in which one can spend hours or even days, but considering I only had a short time in Paris, I wanted to make sure I had the opportunity to explore as much as possible. Of course  I had to find some good treats so upon a recommendation, I had the most delicious icecream at Bertillon, a popular (for good reason) shop in Marais; a warm chicken and mushroom crepe in the Latin Quarter, and the best macaroon pastry I’ve tasted yet at Ladurée near the Concord.

For great nighttime entertainment, definitely go for a dinner and show at Lido on the Champs Élysées.  The food is great, and you can enjoy an elegant night out which will include a live band playing the standards during dinner (you can get up and dance if you’d like!), followed by a spectacular cabaret show with outstanding dancers, singers and performers.  The acts in between the dance numbers were quite impressive and kept the crowd engaged in amazement at some of the acts.

For my last day, which was basically just a morning before we took the train to Amsterdam, I took a walk to the Eiffel Tower and while you can see it from pretty much anywhere in the city, it’s pretty awesome to stand under it and see just how massive it is.  You can also get some great pictures from many different points near the tower.  This morning (Saturday), there was a great market close by with fruit, vegetables, seafood, cheeses, breads and crepes being sold.  It was definitely a lot of fun to walk through and I  wished I hadn’t just eaten breakfast because everything looked so good!

When staying in Paris, I would highly recommend staying at the Concorde La Fayette Hotel attached to the Palais des Congrés, which is home to a few floors of boutique shops and restaurants.  Aside from its rooms and top floor bar with incredible views of the city, it is situated in a great location.  The 1 Metro is right behind the hotel and is the main train line used to get to mostly everywhere you’ll need to go, and if not, you can take the one and transfer to another line.  The bus that goes to and from the Paris Nord train station is also right in front of the hotel.   If you have the opportunity, try and get a room on one of  the top floors with access to the Concord Lafayette Club.  While the main breakfast is great, the one in the lounge serves a delicious spread of salmon, whitefish, fruits, cereals, breads and yogurt.  It is also open for your use most hours of the day for a drink and a place to come and relax or hold a meeting.  From three until seven o’clock, enjoy a wide array of complimentary delicious pastries, fruit and drinks. After a long day of on my feet, it was so nice to come back to the lounge and have a cup of tea or glass of wine with some pastries (yes, more macaroons and chocolate and creamy pastries!).   Everyone in the lounge, business center, and reception areas were really friendly and helpful.   The hotel is constantly renovating to stay modern, but never doing too much at a time, so it will never impact your stay.  The hotel is perfect for the business and leisure traveler.  I felt really comfortable and had everything I needed there.  Be sure to check out the bar on the top floor for a cocktail at night.  With a live DJ Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, it’s the place to be for both locals and tourists.  If you are traveling with a few people or just feel like splurging on yourself, the hotel has some pretty amazing suites with fabulous views on the top floors.  I wish I could move into one of them and stay in Paris for a bit longer!

 

Diamonds (and chocolate) Are A Girl’s Best Friend!

When I planned my European getaway, I was going to be in Paris on February 15 and I thought, oh it’s too bad I won’t be there on Valentine’s Day.  However, I had no idea I’d be in another romantic city, which was also a great place to be for Valentine’s Day.  I was in Antwerp, and I was surrounded by diamonds and chocolate!  Can you ask for a more appropriate setting?  I think not!   Antwerp is considered to be the diamond capital of the world, with 70% of all diamonds coming from Antwerp.  You can find any type of diamond your heart desires, and in the process learn all about what is most important when choosing the right cut, color and clarity.  Diamondland is the place to go to learn about everything you need to know.  You can go in anytime and ask to be seen upstairs, where you can watch the people at work and also ask any and all questions.  For novices, it’s a great place to go to learn about what aspects are really important in choosing a diamond and if you are ready to make the big purchase, there is no shortage of stones from which to choose.  In addition to your standard designs, they even had ones in the shape of an animal if you are just that close with your pet!  The diamond trade has been going on in Antwerp for more than 700 years.

In addition to it being the place to go for everything diamond related, it ‘s also a big shopping mecca, with Meir being the most famous shopping street in Antwerp. As you take in all the modern European shops, you can enjoy buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries.  If it’s a nice day out, relax at one of the cafes with outdoor terraces.  While Antwerp is a bustling city, people tend to go at a more relaxed pace.  With the various districts, you will sure find something for everyone’s interests, from antiques and collectibles to vintage designs and gadgets of the fifties and sixties.  There are also some really delicious restaurants such as Het Pomphuis and Zuiderterras on the River Scheldt, and when the weather is nice, you should take a cruise.  The port of Antwerp is currently the second largest port in Europe and the most important gateway in Europe.  There are also some great museums and churches to visit, so hopefully you will have more time than the one day I spent there, but I did get a taste for the great city and I know I’d definitely go back.

A perfect place to stay while in Antwerp is the Radisson Blu Astrid Hotel, which is right in city center across from the train station, making it very convenient if you are coming or going somewhere else in Belgium.  We were running out of the hotel in Bruges to catch the train to Antwerp and by mistake I left all of our Rail Europe passes at the hotel!  We thought we would have to go back and get them, but the staff at the Radisson Blu was so helpful and arranged for them to be sent to us the next day.  They definitely made my life a lot easier and were so helpful.  The lobby is sleek with a great bar and restaurant and they serve an expansive breakfast, known as the best in the city.  They also offer free wifi, which is always a big plus when traveling.  I’ve stayed at Radisson Blu hotels before and I really like the brand.  I’ve stayed at their properties in Scandinavia and now in Europe.  You can rest assured you will always be getting a quality hotel with good service and accommodations.  For more information on Antwerp and everything Flanders, check out www.visitflanders.us

Fall In Love in Bruges!

We took the easy train ride from Brussels to Bruges, which took a little over an hour, and after less than a ten minute cab ride, we arrived at the Hotel Casselbergh, which was our oasis inside the romantic city of Bruges.  With a gym and spa that included a sauna and steam room and an area to relax that was free for all guests, it was nice to take time out to rejuvenate after running around in the cold for a few days.  The rooms were modern and the beds comfortable!  You can also enjoy the delicious buffet breakfast with an array of breads, jams, lox, cheeses, as well as your traditional items you’d find at home.  

Before I traveled to Belgium, everyone was asking me if I was going to go to Bruges and said I needed to see the movie, “In Bruges.”  I can now see why it was the setting for this and many other movies.  The city is comprised of Renaissance, Baroque and Gothic architecture and has a deep history which you can learn about through one of the city tours or purchasing a 48 city pass that allows you to explore the museums and historical sites for either free or a discounted price.   When the weather is nice, you must enjoy a canal ride around the city and don’t forget to stop by the Minnewater, where the beautiful Bruges swans hang out. Because of the beautiful surroundings, it is mostly referred to as “the lake of love,” the Dutch word “Minne” meaning love.

With many romantic accommodations ranging from your traditional hotels to bed and breakfasts to suites in larger mansions, you’ll find the perfect place to make your stay special.

In additional to the historical and beautiful sites, there are probably more chocolate shops per square mile than anywhere I’ve ever been.  Lace is also popular in Bruges and many stores carry very nice handmade items.  If you are looking for any kind of beer or beer glass, check out the 2be store for all your chocolate, beer and honey needs! 

The food in Bruges was spectacular.  For lunch we enjoyed a traditional Flemish dish of beef stew, perfect after walking around during the cold winter day.  Dinner was at Restaurant Cafedraal which was also the setting for the fight scene in the movie, “In Bruges.”   I think that dinner was one of the best meals I had while in Belgium and the service (we had Igor as our server) was really friendly and personable.  I had oysters from France that were so plump and yummy and then the cod with steamed vegetables that just fell off the fork into my mouth so smoothly!  My friend had the bouillabaisse and as an appetizer, a dish consisting a homemade pasta, fresh tomatoes, Spanish ham and grated parmesan cheese.  I am not a huge beer drinker, but of course when in Belgium, one must try the local brews.  I decided to go with a cherry beer called Liefmans, which has been around since the 1600s but can only be found here, and for someone who doesn’t like beer, it was a great option!  My friend opted for the Duvel.  

So if you are looking for a charming, romantic getaway with great food, ambiance and people, definitely put Bruges on your list and enjoy a perfect mix of exploring, eating, drinking and relaxing!  To find out more about Bruges, please visit www.visitflanders.us

Brusselicious 2012: more than just chocolate and waffles!

Since arriving in Brussels on Thursday morning, I have been to tastings, cooking demonstrations, and have been eating and eating and eating.  Today was the kickoff of Brusselicious 2012, the year of gastronomy hear in Brussels and I can’t think of any better time to visit than now to take advantage of the incredible talent of so many of the local chefs.   You may have been to a Belgium restaurant at home and enjoyed the frites or extensive varieties of beers, but nothing compares to the staples such as chocolate made on premise at a quaint shop, the true Belgian waffle you can get on the street (there are two kinds…one from Brussels and one from Leige and you must try both!), the mussels and french fries, croquettes and cheeses.  Today we had a cooking demonstration for lunch, in which a few top chefs in the area showed us how they made their magic, all incorporating brussels sprouts, and of course we got to eat what was made, which was delicious!  The dishes included everything healthy and simple but creative options from the top restaurant, Lola,  to more creamy  creations from the fine Italian restaurants.  Dinner was prepared by Michelin star rated chefs and the mixture of taste and creativity made for a mouthwatering experience of seafood and meat dishes.

Throughout Brussels, there are many cheese, pastry,  and chocolate shops and stands to grab a quick croquette or waffle.  You can do your own eating and walking tour and eat all day!  Another option is a tram experience in which you can take a two hour tour around the city while enjoying fine dining and drinks all for just 75 Euros, which will include the tour, your upscale meal, two glasses of white and red wine and champagne.

While in Brussels, we stayed at the Royal Windsor Hotel, which was centrally located and comfortable, with a gym and delicious breakfast buffet offered.  The hotel’s breakfast was part of the 20 hotels offering a Brusselicious breakfast, which included at least eight local items, such as a Saint Love jam from the town of Durbuy, actually the smallest city in the world and the jam is all made in one home with some very interesting combinations.  With all of the eating and drinking, every morning I had high hopes of working it off, but instead the breakfast buffet and tastings won out!  

While there is a lot to do in Brussels, you may also opt to take a quick train ride of about one hour to another fun city, Leige.  In Leige, we stayed at the Crowne Plaza, which I highly recommend!  As a historical site, a good part of its original architecture was preserved but the rooms are ultra modern with very comfortable beds and amenities.  They also have a comprehensive gym and spa facility, which again I chose eating instead of working out, so unfortunately, did not get to partake.

The restaurants and nightlife in Leige are a lot of fun.  During the day, you can take a walking tour of the historical city or go shopping, and at night, try dishes such as the boulet de liege or boulet liegois, which are meatballs under a sauce consisting of a regional spread made from apples and pears.  It is absolutely to die for!  We also tried the frog legs, which were actually very good ( not like the kind you get off the Chinese buffet in the U.S!)  We went to Bistrot d’en Face for dinner and for after dinner drinks, you must try some of the local gin like liquor, known as genever, at a place called Maison du Peket.  They mix the liquor with various fruits from kiwi to lemon and then light them on a fire.  At first, the thought of a flame going down my throat as I sucked the shot out through a straw frightened me, but you know what they say, when in Belgium….!  Let’s just say it added a bit of a warmth going down and I don’t understand how the bachelor party I was hanging out with were able to down one after another. 

The next day it was back to Brussels for a stay at the Dominican Hotel, which was a hip, very comfortable hotel with a nice bar, lounge area and gym.  It was convenient to everything and the breakfast was terrific!  For our last dinner, we enjoyed more of the food we were able to sample at the tasting a few days earlier from the phenomenal chefs at Lola, a perfect way to end what was a terrific few days in Brussels and Leige!

If you are deciding where your next trip will be, definitely check out Belgium and start in Brussels.  If you are like me and enjoy eating your way through a country, you will more than enjoy your time here!  There are some exciting things going on throughout 2012, so check out their websites to read all about Belgium and the many gastronomy events!  www.visitbelgium.com or www.visitbelgium.com/belgianbites

 

Waffles, Chocolate and Beer…Welcome to Belgium!

I flew out to Brussels Wednesday evening for  “Brusselicious 2012,” the year Belgium is showcasing the gastronomy of the region.  The kick off of the event starts today, but we already  got a head start yesterday with a chocolate workshop and tasting with Laurent Gerbaud at his delicious chocolate shop.  It was the perfect afternoon activity to cure the jetlag.  While sipping an espresso and tasting the various chocolate covered fruits, chocolates mixed with nuts, learning about the three different types of chocolate and the importance of making chocolate with the finest ingredients with very little sugar, I was quickly on a high and enjoying Brussels already!  Laurent’s shop is a must visit, as he has quite the background and when you go in, you should ask him how he got started and where his career has taken him up until opening this shop a couple of years ago.  He’s quite interesting, extremely friendly, and a very talented chocolatier!

After the tasting, I explored the city with visits to the musical instrument and Jewish museum.  At the musical instrument museum, one can plug in and listen to instruments from many different eras from all around the world.  The Jewish museum was also neat, but all in French, and I unfortunately never studied French,  so I could just look at everything, but didn’t always know what I was looking at.  However, it was still very interesting to see.

The shops around Brussels range from your typical souvenir stores to quaint European boutiques.  There are markets most days of the week including a fruit and vegetable and seafood market, as well as a tradition flea market with second hand goods.

As I was beginning to crash from my chocolate and caffeine high, and the jet lag was setting in, it was time for dinner and of course I had to have the traditional mussels and frites at the restaurant, “Taverne du Passage,” where we also sampled some incredible appetizers local to Belgium.  They make their own mayo which can be used with the french fries, a shrimp and tomato appetizer we enjoyed, and just about anything else you’d like to spread it on.  It’s definitely not your jar of mayo you’re used to in the states.  As I was walking the streets after dinner to see the famous Manneken Pis (a fountain of a  young boy who is doing his thing: there are a few theories as to the meaning behind him), I passed some incredible waffle places, and if I wasn’t so full from dinner, I would have gladly tasted any one of them.  However, today is another day!  Unfortunately, the fountain was not flowing, because it is just that cold here.  It’s not usually this cold in Brussels, but a lot of Europe is currently experiencing a cold snap.

I’m about to run off to a Brussel Sprouts cooking workshop and lunch and will report more later as well as add pictures!