The Adventurous Side of Fiji

Before I left for my trip to Fiji, I had read about the famous Shark Dive and I knew I had to do that at some point in my trip.  However, when I got to the airport, I saw the brochures for Skydive Fiji.  Skydiving has been on my radar for awhile but honestly I’ve been petrified.  However, when I expressed interest, the appointment was booked for my last day and I figured now I had no choice.   I had also posted to facebook asking people who had done it before me to encourage me and I was surprised at how many people had done it before, so I knew I had to jump and what better place than in beautiful Fiji.

Let’s start with the Shark Diving.  I was picked up at Uprising Beach Resort by Beqa Adventure Divers, the first operation in Fiji to do the shark diving.  We were suited up, and taken out for two dives.   On the first dive, we first went down to 100 feet and saw some bull sharks and then we followed the divemaster up to a more shallow area and were surrounded by white tip and black tip reef sharks.  It was an unbelievable show.  I had to duck as they swam right over our heads.  They looked as though they were coming towards us and then wanted nothing to do with us and kept going.  The divemasters had plenty of food for the sharks so the big fish showed up  too.  It was quite spectacular and I recommend it to anyone who is a certified diver.   I know a lot of people are fearful of diving with sharks, but I was more hesitant to go skydiving and Ziplining!   I figured these guys have been going down with the sharks for ten years…they wouldn’t take us down if any of the divers had been bait before!

ZipFiji is the of eight thrilling Ziplines, some over 200 meters long. I had been Ziplining in Costa Rica years ago and loved it, but for hadn’t done it since then and for some reason has been a little afraid.  I think I’ve developed a fear of falling over the years.  However, knowing that it is a highlight in Fiji, I went for it and while it was pouring rain, it was still a fun time flying from platform to platform 100 feet above the forest floor at speeds of up to 60 km/hr!  Daniel, who builds these Ziplines around the world, showed me their plans for a new Zipline and it looks even big and higher than this one!  The staff who goes with you is great.  It is a double line Zipline, so if something were to happen to one line, the other one will hold you up and they are thorough in hooking you up and keeping you safe. They will take your camera and snap photos and video of you, but will also be there to catch you if you don’t break in time, so don’t worry about flying into the trees!

On my last day, I awoke at the Uprising Beach Resort and their transfer service drove me three hours to Nadi, where I was to fly out later that day.  But before my flight, I had one other flight to take…one in a sesna plane with Brent, the man I would be strapped to for the next 15 or so minutes and we made our way up to 14,000 feet in the sky and then jumped out of a perfectly functioning plane.  I was nervous and more so as we kept climbing higher in the sky, but Brent had this confidence about him that made me feel like nothing would happen to me.  I did ask him and when he said I wasn’t going anywhere without him, I knew I just had to take a deep breath and focus on enjoying this once in a lifetime experience. (Although it may not be just a once in my life experience after this!)  We reached our max height of 14,000 feet (they do give you a choice of different heights, but if you are going to do it, you may else well go all the way!) and I was securely strapped to Brent.  I’m glad everything after we got up there happened pretty fast because when he opened the door to the plane and the wind was soaring in our faces, I freaked out…what am I doing?  I can’t believe I’m about to jump out of this plane, but I did get my legs to hang out of the door (probably the toughest part) and as soon as I my head was back on his shoulders and arms crossed, he said here we go, and there we went freefalling  at a crazy fast speed through the sky!  All I could do was scream from excitement and had an exhilarating smile on my face the whole time.  After freefalling for about a minute, he pulled the parachute and we floated through the sky for around five minutes.  He took us for a whirl around, spinning in the sky and then showed me how to control the direction of the parachute.   I couldn’t have asked for more spectacular scenery.  We were flying over the ocean and I could see the various islands of Fiji.  The greens and dark blue spots of coral were breathtaking.  We did a beach landing on Denarau Island.  It’s so cool landing on the sand!  If you are heading to Fiji, you must try Skydive Fiji.  If you have never been, your first experience will be amazing and if you’ve been skydiving before, you must add Fiji to your list because seeing the islands from the sky is a perspective you must have!  Be sure to get the DVDs and pictures!  You’ll want to relive your experience over and over again! Here is the link to the video   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ABSckCJkZY.




Meet New Friends at The Uprising Resort

For most of my trip in Fiji, I stayed at beautiful and fun resorts and went diving as often as I could.  However, there is a part of Fiji, Pacific Harbor, known as the adventure capital of Fiji.  Of course I had to find out why.  I flew 16 hours and as much as I love relaxing at gorgeous resorts and spas, I wanted to experience the adrenaline pumping part of the country.   For that I flew into Suva, the capital city of Fiji, just a quick 45 minute flight on a puddle jumper from Taveuni.  I stayed at the Uprising Beach Resort for a bit of a different flavor and they sent a driver to pick me up at the airport, which made it super easy to get to the resort, which was about a 45 minute drive.  I was curious to see some of Suva, and the driver was  more than happy to stop at a market I spotted along the way, which made for an enjoyable ride and a way to see Suva instead of going right to the resort.

The Uprising Beach Resort is not your posh resort, but perfect if you’d like to meet other people who are backpacking or just looking for a reasonably priced place to stay with good clean accommodations.  The Uprising Resort caters to solo and couple travelers as well as those with families.  It has a dormitory that can accommodate many backpackers at a very reasonable rate of $35 Fijian dollars per night which is about $18 U.S. and the private oceanview bures go for $200 per night and the garden view $180 which have a queen and twin sized bed, a kitchen area and outside shower and separate bathroom outside your room.  My bure was oceanfront and I fell asleep to the sound of the waves each night.   Uprising has two bars, one in the restaurant and one close to the beach, perfect for watching the sunsets and meeting fellow travelers.  It’s the perfect setting for someone who has come to Pacific Harbor to take advantage of the many activities such as ziplining, white water rafting, shark and soft coral diving, fishing and hiking to the waterfalls.  If you don’t feel like leaving the resort, they have an onsite company, Sublime Water Sports and Tours which offers jet skiing in the Beqa Lagoon, snorkel trips, kayaking, horseback riding, or you can simply choose to get a relaxing massage by the beach.  I chose the 1 hour full body massage and had two women slather me with coconut lotion including face, scalp and stomach in addition to the usual spots.  Definitely an massage like no other!

The owner and operations manager of Uprising Beach Resort are young hardworking guys and can understand what the traveler on a budget is looking for.  They’ve only been open for three and a half years, but already have started to expand.  In addition to their comfortable accommodations in their current bures, they are expanding over the next year and will offer a villas section which will include a bathroom and shower which are inside and attached to the bure and will have AC as well.  It will cost a bit more, but still within good reason for a night’s stay in Fiji.

So if you’re looking for a fun comfortable place to stay with a good staff and interesting people, the Uprising Beach Resort is the place to stay.

Lasting Memories from Matangi

As I sit here writing this blog entry, the sound of the ocean waves are behind me and the Fijian musicians are to my right playing their soft guitar music and singing along in their harmonious voices.  I love how so many Fijians are into their music and have the most beautiful voices.  When we paid a visit to the village yesterday, it was precious hearing the young boys and girls singing along to the men who were playing their guitars.  It will be difficult to leave in the morning, but it has been an outstanding stay.

After a single tank dive today with Ally, I took the day trip the resort offers to Tavoro Waterfalls on Taveuni Island.  Despite the muddy conditions from the rain the night before, it was a beautiful hike.  You have the option of stopping at three separate waterfalls and if the water is calm and rocks not slippery, go for a swim in the waterfalls, which we did in the first one.  There was a couple getting married at one of the waterfalls and they had an arch made up purely of flowers and plants.  It was beautiful and a great backdrop for the special occasion. The resort packs a nice lunch consisting of salad, fruits, and quiche and has cookies and tea waiting for you after the long, but exhilarating hike.

I’m about to sit down to a delicious dinner (I have not had one bad meal here) in their open air dining area.  It also makes the perfect gathering place for anyone who must be on their computers since they have free wi-fi (I wouldn’t be if I wasn’t working!) or if you just want to hang out and have a drink.  There is always peaceful music playing in the background and you are pretty much forced to relax.  Plus everyone around you is on Fiji time, so I had to be told to just slow down and not worry about running to be anywhere at a certain time.

As a family run resort, they really strive to make everyone happy and they do an excellent job of it.  I also felt completely safe and as though everyone was looking out for me to make sure I didn’t have to worry about a thing.  For instance, when I got back from my muddy hike and asked for a scrub brush for my sneakers, they took them instead and said they’d have them clean for me by the morning.  The owners still have an active role in the resort and so many who work there are related to one another, so it really is one big family and they sure make you feel like an integral part of it when spending your days and nights with them.

Matangi…A South Pacific Paradise

It’s been a busy few days of diving, hiking, snorkeling, kayaking, swimming, massages and visits to neighboring villages so I’m a little behind on the blog of my Fiji trip, but all I can say is Matangi, vinaka for making my stay magical, adventurous and breathtaking.  Matangi is a private island resort located off of Taveuni, an island in the north of Fiji only accessible by boat.  After a quick one hour flight from Nadi aboard a prop plane, I was in Taveuni and then enjoyed a beautifully scenic drive through the lushest landscapes to board my boat to the resort. 

Matangi is what I had always envisioned as the South Pacific.  Bures with a beach view, a ton of palm trees, hammocks, crystal blue waters, and the most loving staff you could ever imagine.  As soon as you arrive, they make you feel like family, which is what I’m finding with  most of the Fijian people I have met.  They are so sweet and it’s sincere.  Of course being from New York originally, I was skeptical of their overly sweet nature at first, but it’s   genuine.   In addition to their friendly hospitality, they go out of their way to make sure you are fully pleased with every aspect of your stay.  They take great pride in your happiness and it shows in the cleanliness of your bures to the delicious, freshly prepared meals with your dietary restrictions in mind to making sure the activites you partake in are most enjoyable.

My bure is beachfront with it’s own porch with a day bed and two rocking chairs and  a hammock a few feet away by the water.  My favorite parts are the outside shower made of rocks, and the wonderful coconut cream shampoo, conditioner and bath gel.  After going diving everyday, my hair can be a complete knotty mess, and their conditioner is the first one on my trip able to make it feel silky smooth afterwards!  Showering under the stars is definitely romantic as is the mosquito netting they put around your bed at night.  In addition to keeping out any stray mosquitos, it actually sets a nice ambiance in white and get this, there is an AC unit above your bed that just cools off your bed and doesn’t waste a lot of energy since it’s confined to inside your netting, so you can keep your windows open to feel the warm South Pacific breeze or my favorite, the rooster wakeup call in the morning.  Roosters in the morning, frogs hopping around on my porch at night…it makes me smile.

As I mentioned, this resort is so romantic and superb for honeymoons, proposals, anniversaries, or just because.  If you are traveling solo like me, you can come to unwind.  You can be on your own as much as you’d like or partake in a number of organized activities throughout the day so you never have to feel alone.  Since I love to dive and Taveuni is known for it’s soft coral, I chose to dive with Ally every day of my trip.  She is wonderful!!!  She is extremely knowledgeable and will make sure your dives are a wonderful experience.  She has been diving for a very long time, but  still gets excited when she sees so much of what’s under the sea and the enthusiasm is contagious, although it’s certainly not difficult to fall in love with all of the coral and fish.  I have never seen such amazing soft and hard coral and huge fish one minute and schools of tiny fish surrounding you the next.  Today, I found myself singing “A Whole New World” to myself underwater.  It really is an experience like no other and not only did Ally point out some wonderful finds on the dive, but she also sat with me afterwards to go through my pictures and identify everything.  This morning we did two dives and she took me out on a night dive tonight right off the shore, which was a treat.   We saw a lot of sea grass, anemone, pufferfish and a really cute crab making it’s way along the ocean floor.   In between dives on the first day, we stopped at Horseshoe Bay, one of the places on the list of 100o places to see before you die.  They bring couples there to have their own private picnic and enjoy the secluded beach on their own for the afternoon.   Definitely worth a visit!

In additon to diving, there are many other activities that are included in your stay such as a visit to the nearby village, Vatusoqosoqo which was developed in the late 1700s on the island of Qamea.  I went by boat to the village and I thoroughly enjoyed the experience.  It’s easy to stay on a resort for your whole trip and never see anything besides that, but I always like getting out and seeing  the local culture and people.   All I can say is the Fijian children were absolutely adorable and they made me laugh with them.   They love seeing pictures taken of themselves and the older ones take pride in sharing their customs and traditions.  We sat in for a Kava ceremony where they make this traditional drink from the kava plant and everyone sits around and drinks from a wooden bowl.  I tried it for the first time and all I can say is my throat and tongue went numb!  It’s an organic narcotic so if you drink a bunch, you’ll be feeling nice and relaxed!

I can write so much more, but for now, I need to get to bed so I can wake up for my dive and then hike to the waterfall tomorrow. Oh yeah, one more thing, you do need to hike and swim here to work off the incredible homemade pastries made of peanut butter, chocolate and sponge cake they leave out 24/7 and the cookies in your room.   As Ally would say, they should be illegal!

Vinaka Castaway Island Resort

I am just about to leave from my two day stay at Castaway Island Resort.  I had two great dives yesterday to the sites Supermarket and Magic, which is the beginning of the Great Barrier Reef and was spectacular.  We watched white tip baby reef sharks swim around us and saw a green turtle during our safety stop as well as a ton of incredible coral and many species of fish.   Jerry, the dive master who took me diving was terrific! I can understand why Castaway’s dive shop is rated a five star Padi operation.  He was so concerned about me (and my lower back issues) the entire dive including the rough boat ride back because of the weather.

By nature, I am not very good at relaxing.  I always feel I have to be doing something, but I can finally say that after just three days in Fiji, I am calm and at peace just sitting here facing the ocean surrounded by palm trees, a warm breeze and the soft Fijian music playing behind me.  I had a 30 minute massage yesterday which was wonderful.  I wasn’t sure I could relax in just 30 minutes, but the therapist did a great job, plus the fact that the table was set in the middle of the lush trees and plants with birds chirping made for the perfect setting.

After these few days, I can understand why Castaway Island has a 50% return business rate.  The staff is so friendly and welcoming, remembering everyone’s name and making sure you feel like family.  They are terrific with the kids and have a kids camp so the adults can do their own thing while their children enjoy many organized activities with each other and the staff.  I can’t stress how wonderful the staff is with each child.  If I had small children, I would feel completely comfortable leaving them for the day so I could go out and dive or enjoy the many other watersports they offer as part of your stay.   All of the guests are also so friendly to one another, probably because of the atmosphere the staff sets, and I enjoyed meeting couples and families from many parts of the world, primarily Australia, since they are only three hours away.  

I’m about to board the boat to go back to the mainland before flying out of Nadi to the north, but not before enjoying a walk on the beach, a peaceful rest in the hammock and breakfast filled with fresh fruits, an egg and french toast station, and some traditional Fijian dishes.  I’ll miss you Castaway family, but looking forward to my next adventure in Fiji.  Fijime some more relaxation and adventure!

Castaway Island Take Me Away!

This morning I transferred to Castaway Island Resort by boat from Port Denarau and so far it’s been a great time with such a friendly and helpful staff in a gorgeous setting.  Unfortunately, it rained for most of the day, which they said they haven’t seen in a few months, but the warm breeze still made for a relaxing time.  I went for an herbal medicine walk and was shown how plants grown right there have been used to treat all kinds of ailments instead of popping pills.  The sun peaked out for a bit, so I jumped into the blue ocean and went for a swim with the fish on the reef right off of the shore.  After a shower in my own bure (bungalow), I had dinner which was accompanied by great Fijian musicians.  The bure is a wonderful place to stay…modern, yet a true island feel.  I like the bowl of water they put outside your door to wash your feet and shoes after coming from the beach or the Bush Walk, which is a beautiful hike through the mountains to a lookout point over the ocean.  I am waking up early tomorrow for hopefully two scuba dives, so I’m going to sign off for now, but pics and more updates coming tomorrow!

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Bula from Fiji!

I just awoke for my first full day in Fiji to birds chirping and the warm air with a cool breeze.  Fiji has always been on the top of my list for places to go for romance and scuba.  However, I always thought it was so far away and I didn’t know when I would get the time to go.  However, even though it is a 16 hour plane ride in total, it didn’t feel long at all because the LAX to Fiji flight on Air Pacific was an overnighter (12:30am EST) so I slept almost the whole trip.  The Air Pacific flight was spacious with 67 rows and the service friendly.  The food was simple, but good and fresh.  For dinner, I had a turkey and cranberry sandwich and breakfast was fresh fruit, yogurt and a muffin with juice and coffee or tea.  The check-in process couldn’t have been easier with no line even with the huge flight.  For my flight from NY to LAX, I took Jet Blue, which is still my favorite domestic airline.  There is always ample legroom and the in flight entertainment is top notch with Sirius/XM radio and multiple television and movie options.  If you’d like even more space, you can pay an additional $50 for their extra legroom seats in the first five rows and exit rows.   They are still the only airline I know who hand out little bottles of water and your choice of a few full sized snacks, so if you have a nut allergy, no worries!  They have blue chips, chocolate chip cookies, a pretzel and cheetos mix, and animal crackers.

For my first day and night in Fiji, I stayed at the Outrigger Resort, about an hour drive from the airport.  The Outrigger is perfect for families looking to getaway.  From my terrace, I overlooked the lush landscapes and the blue ocean.  They have activities planned for the adults and children throughout the day so if mom or dad would like to do their own thing, they can drop the kids off with the great staff.   From what I saw, the Fijians were great with the little ones.   Since I was at the resort by 7:30am. I had the whole day ahead of me.  At first I was just going to relax and take in a spa treatment, but then I ran into Alfred from DiveAway Dive Shop and when he said you can see white tipped reef sharks at the Stingray site, I ran back to the room to get my wet suit and I was off to their dive operation, a short drive at a nearby resort.   They have many classes for beginner divers so if you’re curious about diving or would like to complete your certification, this is the place to do it.   I went for a dive with Claire who pointed out so many fishes including a huge pufferfish, moray eels, and there it was…the big white tipped reef shark hanging out on the bottom of the ocean.  We hovered and watched him swim around a few times and I must admit that as we swam away, I did look behind me a few times!

After a great dive, I had a delicious chicken and papaya salad for lunch with a fresh squeezed pineapple, passion fruit and ginger drink.  I love all of the fresh fruit here in Fiji.  For breakfast, they had a fruit bar with someone cutting up fresh mangos, papaya, passion fruit, watermelon, bananas, and pineapple and making fresh smoothies and juices.

From lunch, I hopped on a cable car and made my way to the top of the hill to the peaceful spa overlooking the resort and ocean.  They have a small chapel up there as well and as I was leaving, a bride and her wedding party arrived to the sound of four men playing traditional Fiji music on their guitars and singing.…what a great setting!   The hot stone and seashell massage I had was amazing.  She started with a regular massage and then introduced the shells, which really got out the kinks.  I was curious as to how they differed from the hot stones, so she used some of each, which was amazing! I tried the caviar facial mask which is scientifically proven to smooth out wrinkles, so I put it to the test!  It definitely left my skin really soft.   The two treatments were perfect for rejuvenating after the plane ride and getting on the right foot for my trip ahead.   If you are with your partner, you can opt for a couples massage and enjoy champagne and oysters before or after your treatment in the truly romantic setting.

Dinner was a buffet meal of Fijian dishes and desserts with live entertainment consisting of men and women from the local villages singing and dancing traditional Fijian songs.  The whole pig sitting on the buffet with face and body is always a bit disconcerting, but hey, when in Fiji….

I am heading to the boat to go to Castaway Island for another day of fun, sun and relaxation in Fiji.  More to come…

What to do in the Island of Fire and Ice

Iceland is known as the island of fire and ice for it’s many volcanoes and glaciers.  In addition to the sheer beauty of its landscape, there are plenty of activities that one can enjoy such as glacier walking, ice climbing, snowmobiling, and dog sledding. While in the countryside, we climbed up a glacier with our tour guide, Erling from Iceland Encounters, and explored the south coast with it’s spectacular mountains, waterfalls, and black sand beaches.  We also paid a visit to the renowned folk museum at Skogar, which provides an intriguing glance into Iceland’s fishing and farming past.

We went horseback riding in the countryside.  It was two of us with a guide in the font and one in the back.  The Icelandic horses are so beautiful and smaller than our horses in the United States, so for those who have never been horseback riding before, like myself, it made for a nice first ride.

There are a few staple tourist attractions that everyone sees, but while they may be touristy, they are that way for a reason and I would not skip them.   They include the Golden Circle Tour, which includes a visit to the Gullfoss waterfall, the Geysir Hot Springs and Pingvellir National Park.  The park is located on the Mid-Atlantic ridge where the continents of Europe and America drift apart, causing earthquakes and volcanic activity.  The Blue Lagoon is also a must stop, which I’ll tell you about later.

What if I told you I went scuba diving in Iceland? Would you believe me?  An interesting place to dive is Silfra in the Pingvellir National Park where you can literally touch both continents.  It’s the area between the Eurasian and American tectonic plates.  We went with the company Dive.Is.  They will pick you up at your hotel in Reykjavik and offer a few different diving and snorkeling tours, the Sifra being the most popular.  We went for two dives with an hour break in between for cookies and hot chocolate.  They do provide you with dry suits and all the gear you’ll need to keep warm.  All you have to bring is your long underwear and thick socks.  I decided to wear two layers of long underwear and socks just to be sure!  Also be sure to check your dry suit and have them inspect the seals before jumping in the water.  Also make sure there are no rips in the suits because it can make for a very unpleasant dive.  The water was about 35 degrees and while your body stays warm, you will feel it in your hands through the gloves and on your face.  It takes a little getting used to, but if you can put mind over matter, you’ll enjoy a beautifully clear dive with visibility of 150 meters.   You won’t see any fish in this lake, but it is neat to say that you went scuba diving or snorkeling in between the continents in Iceland!

While in Reykjavik, you’ll want to experience one of their geothermal spas they are known for.  It only costs around $3 and you can swim in an Olympic size warm water outdoor pool with no chlorine!  Because the water is constantly being renewed, there is no common bacteria and no need for chemicals.  They also have several hot tubs or hot pots as they call them, at different temperatures.  There’s nothing more refreshing than sitting in a hot pot with the crisp air around you.

Whale watching is also very popular in Iceland, with a few operations down at the harbor.  We went with Erding and saw some really cute white striped dolphins and a few whales and porpoises in the distance.  The woman on our boat was very knowledgeable and enthusiastic when searching for the whales and dolphins!

For our last night in Iceland, we stayed at the Clinic Hotel, part of the Blue Lagoon.  Most people stop at the Blue Lagoon on their way to Reykjavik since it’s fairly close to the airport or on the last day as they head to the airport.  We decided to stay over so we would be there in the morning and get in a few hours before leaving.  I had a wonderful morning after a great night’s rest.  I walked the five minute path to the Blue Lagoon.  The Blue Lagoon is made up of 6 million liters of geothermal seawater that is cycled through every 40 hours and is heated over 6500 feet below the ground.  The silica and salts in the water having healing properties and silica mud is provided free of charge to put on your face and body while relaxing in the lagoon.  There is a bar and a waterfall, which feels great on your back!  You’ll just have to be prepared for the sulfur smell and your hair will get very dry, so either wear a hair cap or put a lot of conditioner in before and after.

While the lagoon is really beautiful and fun to do on its own, I would highly recommend adding one of their beauty or massage treatments to your stay.  They offer massages in the lagoon and facials and beauty treatments in their indoor facility.  I went for the facial and hand and arm treatment which were both amazing.  They use only Blue Lagoon scrubs, mud, cleaners and creams which left my skin really soft and moisturized and the massages that went along with the treatments was so relaxing.   While their locker rooms can accommodate up to 700 people at a time, they offer an exclusive section you can rent for a few hours.  This includes your own private shower, towels, flip flops, robes and Blue Lagoon shower gels and lotions.  They also have an indoor lagoon in which you can start after your water, coffee or chocolates.  It definitely enhances your whole spa experience.

So as you can see, there are many options for activities depending on the type of trip you’d like to have.  I’d mix it up with a bit of adventure, exploration, nightlife and relaxing…and of course trying the Icelandic food.  Let me know if you taste that fermented shark!

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Iceland: Where to Stay and What to Eat

When I told my family and friends, I was headed to Iceland, some responses I got were, “Why Iceland?” or “really…your flight is only four and a half hours? I thought you were going half way around the world!  I think many people have a huge misconception about Iceland and most had never even considered it before hearing about the volcanic eruption in April that blocked European travel.  However, I had heard Iceland was a great place to go to see incredible beauty and experience adventure so I decided to take the trip right after peak summer season but before the days started to get shorter.  During the summer, they experience the midnight sun, where there will still be sunlight at midnight and in the winter, they have a span of about 4 or 5 hours of daylight.  At the end of September, daylight averages that of the United States.   Keep in mind if you go after October, there is still plenty to see and do, but many tour operators do shut down.

I had heard you could do Iceland in four days or a few weeks and still have a lot to explore.   I decided on a week and it was a terrific trip, despite the unprecedented torrential downfall that they haven’t seen in years.  I did come prepared with my waterproof jacket and pants, hat, gloves, scarf, and a bunch of shirts and long underwear to layer.   It is very important to bring layers because the weather can change on a dime from perfectly sunny and beautiful to extreme wind and rain.   We flew into Keflavik airport aboard Iceland Air, which is a great economical way to fly direct from JFK to Iceland.  They also fly to many other places in Scandinavia and Europe, so it’s great for booking additional flights around your Icelandic adventure.  The flight is very comfortable with ample legroom in economy and the flight attendants are extremely friendly and helpful.  You may want to bring food on the flight or eat beforehand because the only food in economy is for purchase.  But since the flight was only four and half hours there and five and a half on the way back, I didn’t mind.   On the way back, I purchased a veggie wrap with hummus, vegetables, and feta. They also had a few hot options that sounded good as well.

After we landed from our quick overnight flight, we hopped in a cab to Reykjavik and spent the afternoon on a walking tour and exploring the shops of the city.   We worked with the tour company, Iceland Encounters, which specializes in personalized tours to travelers from the United States.  Erling and Kristina Asplund run the company and they are really wonderful.  I went back and forth with Erling many times with questions in planning the itinerary and he was always very helpful and knowledgeable before and during the trip.  He has his own 4×4, which is great when exploring the areas filled with lava rocks.  The rain had made for some tough driving conditions, but we were able to get through everything.

While many companies offer excursions from Reykjavik, we chose to split our trip between the city of Reykjavik and the countryside.  While in Reykjavik, we stayed at the Radisson 1919, which is a contemporary hotel right in the center of the city.  I would highly recommend staying there as the beds and rooms are comfortable, it’s close to the harbor and all of the bars and restaurants.  This will be convenient when you want to go out on Friday night.  Friday is definitely the night you’ll want to be in Reykjavik when everyone goes downtown from the different parts of Iceland and parties from about midnight until 4am.   We were out dancing at my one place and I was in my sweater, so it was nice to be able to walk a few feet back to the hotel, change and go back out.  The breakfast at the Radisson 1919 is delicious and a perfect way to start the day.  They have a selection of breads, lox, herring, deli meats and cheeses, cod liver oil, which is a staple in Icelandic breakfasts, yogurt, dried fruits and nuts, an assortment of cereals, eggs, sautéed mushrooms, beans, bacon and potatoes.   To drink, there’s  a variety of juices, coffee, tea and they will even make you a cappuccino.   For those of you who can’t drink milk, you’ll be thrilled to know, as I was, that they serve soymilk!   Everyone in the service department was very friendly and helpful in giving recommendations.  While I did not have time to use it, they also have a gym for those looking to burn off the hotdogs they may eat since what is known as the best hotdog or pulsyr stand is right outside the hotel.  The hotdogs in Iceland are made primarily of lamb, with some beef and pork and this place piles on the ketchup, mustard, mayo and fried onions.  I also liked staying at the Radisson 1919 because I know the Radisson Blu brand and no matter what country I am in, it is going to be a good place to stay.  They have properties throughout Europe and Scandinavia and are always expanding so you know no matter where your travels take you, you’ll have a reliable hotel.

There are many great restaurants in Reykjavik ranging in price, serving up Icelandic delicacies.  Iceland is known for its lamb, whale meat, puffin, langoustines, salmon and cod and for the more courageous, ram testicles, horse, and fermented shark.   We had dinner at the Fish Market and Fish Company and lunch at Icelandic Fish and Chips.   Normally I do not eat fried food, but at least three people had told us that Icelandic Fish and Chips weas so good.  They were right.  The fish was fried in spelt and barley, so a little healthier than normal and the wolfish, which I had fried, was amazing…so juicy.  They are a very reasonably priced option.  The Fish Market and Fish Company are a bit more upscale and pricey, but if you want an incredible meal,  it’s well worth it.  The Fish Company is also quite romantic, set in the basement of the Zimsen building which dates back to 1884.  We got the Icelandic tasting menu, which consisted of skate and shrimps with cottage cheese smoked celery root, rhubarb and a homemade spicebread.  Each dish had so many flavors with wonderful ingredients in every bite and with each course, they explained in detail what we were eating.  I would love to tell you what went into every dish, but it’s very involved, so you can read their succulent menu on their website at www.fiskfelagid.is.  We also had arctic char, cod, lamb, puffin, whale, and a desert of rhubarb cake and custard with cinnamon spiced oatmeal, sheep sorrel syrup and sour milk foam.  The day before we had eaten there, I was told the chef just won the 2010 chef of the year award for Iceland.  I can definitely understand why.  The lamb dish alone was a masterpiece to look at and eat.  It was so tender and juicy and after eating that dinner, I agree that Iceland has terrific lamb, but you have to go the right place.

At the Fish Market, we also did the tasting menu, which was eight courses, and while each dish was better than the last, it was definitely a lot of food and I was stuffed by the fourth or fifth, but of course I kept eating because it was just all so delicious!  There we had king crab, pork ribs, a tomato and watermelon salad, sushi that was so fresh, cod, salmon and lamb.  The wild salmon is caught locally and is also wonderful.

After we spent a few days in Reykjavik, we rode out of the city about two hours and stayed at Hotel Ranga.  It seemed like it was in the middle of nowhere, but it’s the place to stay if you would like to spend time outside the city exploring the volcanoes, glaciers, hot springs, waterfalls and national park.   The hotel has a cabin feel with private hot tubs for hotel guests.  If you get a room on the lakeside, the hot tub is right outside your back door leading onto your terrace.  We were told this is the best place to stay to see the Northern Lights, but unfortunately, it rained while we were there, so they were not visible.  The breakfast buffet was terrific with the traditional Scandinavian breakfast items and dinner was delicious.  The restaurant is romantic and the food excellent, but be prepared to spend a bit.  We had their fish soup for lunch, which had chunks of fish, shrimp, lobster and scallops.

For our last night in Iceland, we stayed at the Clinic Hotel, which is part of the Blue Lagoon.  It’s very relaxing a great place to stop to wind down your trip.  They also serve a good breakfast and their beds are made of memory foam with a comfy topper, which made for a terrific night’s sleep.  Your room’s back door leads into the dramatic lava rocks with the mountains as a backdrop.  The Clinic Hotel and the Blue Lagoon are known for treating patients with psoriasis, but it’s great for anyone looking for a little R & R and healing skin treatments.

I also discovered Skyr, a traditional Icelandic food that is very similar to yogurt, but very creamy, I was surprised when I saw how few calories there were for such great texture!  You can buy it in the grocery store and it’s also included in many desserts.

You can definitely eat well in Iceland and it’s important with all the activity you’ll be doing!  Pictures coming soon!

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Find your Inner Curl!

For all you women with curly hair, you know how difficult it can be to get a good haircut.  You try to get rid of the bulk around your face, so they take a razor to thin it out and before you know it, your hair never curls the way it used to.  So many places can give you a good haircut if you are willing to blow your hair straight everyday, but how many places really know the intricacies of curly hair, keeping each curl full of bounce and vibrancy so you’re not a slave to your blow dryer or flat iron?  Don’t get me wrong, for professional meetings and work, I blow my hair straight, but on an everyday basis, I would like to be able to throw in some gel and go.  

When I lived in NYC, there were a few curly hair salons that I heard about, but I had never tried one out…until now.  It was a Friday and I decided I needed a fresh look so I called up Ouidad, an upscale but friendly 5000 sq. foot salon specializing in curly, wavy and kinky hair on 57th street between 5th and 6th avenues.  I worked with Ana, the artistic director and educator, who has been at the salon for over fifteen years and before we even got started, she talked with me all about my hair..what I like, what I don’t like, etc.  She made sure to know exactly what I wanted before getting started.  Right away, I knew I’d be in good hands.  She suggested brightening up my color a bit for the summer and added beautiful highlights around my face and to the crown of my head.  She knew the perfect color combination.  It came out looking natural, but bright with contrast.  She mixed three different shades to achieve the look, which also worked to fix a bad color job from another salon.

Next up was the cut, and again, we discussed the length and look I was going for.  I like my long hair, but I wanted something fun and sassy, so she cut a few inches.  But it was more than just a trim off the bottom.  Ouidad’s stylists use a technique called carving and slicing as they address each individual curl.  Throughout my cut and color, Ana’s assistant, Sondriel, explained everything to me, from how to shampoo and condition my hair for the best looking curls to the types of products to use and how to style.  She also kept asking if I had any questions.  I think it’s great how much time they spend with you explaining everything, unlike in many salons where you almost feel like you’re bothering them by asking any questions.

A big part of managing your curly hair is how you treat and style it so Ana showed me a technique for getting a certain look when blow drying it straight and then explained the rake and shake technique they use for keeping it curly.  It definitely takes some practice, as I’ve not yet perfected it, but it’s a pretty simple way of getting the full head of curls and volume you’ve always wanted!  Even without spending the time doing the shake and rake throughout my hair, it still comes out really curly with just some gel.  I was amazed at the all of the beautiful curls on the women as they left the salon.

After you are done with your appointment, they hand you a booklet with their products and directions for how to style your hair, but I was so surprised that they did not pressure me into buying any of the products.  Usually at salons like these, they will tell you that you must buy their products to achieve the same look.  Instead, Sondriel suggested I finish the products I have at home first and then I can always go back in or order them online.  I know I will be getting the Ouidad products because I believe they work well, but it’s nice to know there’s no  pressure of adding a long list of products onto your bill that day.   I walked out of the salon feeling confident with my new found curls…ones that were always mine, but were hiding under a bad cut.  Thanks Ouidad!

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