Thailand: Affordable Cuisine, Culture, Markets and Massages!

Bangkok

Bangkok

From Bangkok’s bustling city life to Chiang Mai’s temples and elephant farms, and Phuket’s paradise beaches and resorts, Thailand has something for everyone. As I write this, I am on my way to Chiva Som, Thailand’s premiere health and wellness resort in Hua Hin, about three hours from Bangkok International airport.  I am excited to go, but also sad, as I leave my friends behind after what was just an amazing ten day journey, exploring the culture, people, and cuisine of Thailand.   I was traveling with seven other writers and photographers from New York and Canada, and while none of us knew each other before the trip, the magical experience bonded us.

Grand Palace, Bangkok

Grand Palace, Bangkok

Before arriving to Thailand, I knew from people who had traveled previously that I could get a massage; maybe two a day, at prices under $10 for an hour.  So that was my only goal before arriving – get as many massages as possible.  Other than that, I had no expectations, and my eyes were wide open, ready for an adventure.  I flew Virgin America from NY to LA and then Thai Airways from LA to Seoul and Seoul to Bangkok.  It was my first time flying Virgin America, and I thoroughly enjoyed the comfortable flight and easy to use wifi on board.  The flight from LAX to Seoul was 12 hours and then another 5 from Seoul to Bangkok.  My only wish was to be able to sleep, and I sure did!  The Thai Airways economy section was very comfortable.  There was more legroom than expected on the spacious aircraft, and the colorful seats and friendly flight attendants made for a very pleasant flight.  Their motto is “smooth as silk,” and the flights really were that.  It was also a great introduction to the welcoming people of Thailand.

 Thailand has so many regions one can explore, but with only about a week to explore, we had to fit as much in as possible, so we covered Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Phuket, which gave us the opportunity to experience a long boat ride along the Chao Phraya River outside our hotel, the Chatrium Hotel Riverside, the Grand Palace, and reclining Buddha in Bangkok, along with the red light district of Papong and the night bazaar.

Bosang Umbrella Factory; Chiang Mai

Bosang Umbrella Factory; Chiang Mai

Papong is comprised of two streets with people selling knock off purses, sunglasses, etc. and the perimeter consists of bars with women showing off talents with muscles not usually trained at the gym.  And like with all the shopping in Thailand, one should bargain for these goods as well.  The longboat ride was a great way to see the city from the river and a good intro to Bangkok.  The Chatrium properties throughout Bangkok are very comfortable and a great place to stay, especially if you plan on being in the area for awhile and want to do your own cooking.  Each suite comes with a kitchen, and many with sweeping views on the city.

Dhara Devi; Chiang Mai

Dhara Devi; Chiang Mai

One property is located more in the business district along the river, while another in the heart of the city.  On the way back from the night bazaar the first night, I was determined to get in my first massage.  It was a one hour Thai massage for just 250 baht, which is about $8.  I splurged and got a half an hour foot massage as well for $4.  With tip, an hour and a half spa treatment came to $15.  I was a happy girl.  Two days later, we all went for two hour (yes, two hours!) massages at “Let’s Relax,” in the Mandarin Hotel.  They have locations throughout Thailand, and it was one of the best massages I had in Thailand.

Mae Klang Luang Village

Mae Klang Luang Village

Chiang Mai was the next stop on the trip.  A short one hour flight took us from Bangkok to Chiang Mai aboard Thai Airways.  You can fly throughout Thailand very easily and inexpensively for around $60-$80 one way.  At first I was thinking I’d have loved to have spent more time in Bangkok, but when we arrived in Chiang Mai, I no longer felt that way.  While Bangkok is a fun city, I think it’s even more special to get out of Bangkok and see the northern and southern parts of the country for diversity in the people and activities.
Dhara Dhevi

Dhara Dhevi

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Iathanon National Park

In Chiang Mai, we stayed at a few different properties, each unique in its own right.  In the city, we stayed at Le Meridian and dusitD2, where we had an amazing Thai dinner in their restaurant, whose head chef was formally at the Four Seasons.  The hotels are located right near the night bazaar, which makes for some great shopping until midnight or 1am.  And yes, also near more massage storefronts.  This time I elected a foot massage, as we had hiked earlier in the day throughout the Doi Inthanon National Park. The easy to moderate hiking trail took us through gorgeous rice fields, waterfalls, and ended with a visit to the Mae Klang Luang Village, where we tasted arabica coffee and had a delicious homemade lunch.  Doi Inthanon makes for a great day trip from the city of Chiang Mai, and if you feel like immersing yourself even deeper into the culture with a community based tourism program, you can spend some time at the government’s Royal Agricultural Project and stay on property of the Royal Agricultural Station Inthanon.

Patara Elephant Farm

Patara Elephant Farm

A visit to Thailand is not complete without a visit to an elephant farm   Chang means elephant and since there is chang water, chang beer, chang pants and boxers sold on the street, we had to see the country’s animal up close and personal.  For this we went to the Patara Elephant Farm, where we  had the opportunity to feed the elephants, get into the water with them to clean them, and then go for a ride.  This  is a great activity for both kids and adults, as you can spend the day learning  all about caring for an elephant, and then take part hands on.  Naturally the kids were far less fearful about climbing up onto this huge animal than I was!

Patara Elephant Farm; Chiang Mai

Patara Elephant Farm; Chiang Mai

Also in Chiang Mai, you can visit some beautiful temples including Doi Sutwep and get blessed by the monks.  Thailand is also known for its beautiful handicrafts and silk, and in an afternoon, you can visit the Bolsang Umbrella Factory, and see how the umbrellas are made from hand, with the opportunity to purchase an umbrella or a fan and have them hand painted by the artists on premise.  For just 100 bat ($3), you can get some beautiful designs on an item of your choice, including ones you already have with you, such as a purse or camera case.
Durian Fruit

Durian Fruit

The Silk Village is a fun place to go and watch how silk is made, from the beginnings of the silk worm to the finished scarf.  In the back, one can purchase a taylor made suit or dress from thai silk, cashmere or wool and a number of other silk products.  There are many shops throughout Thailand with skilled tailors who will make suits and dresses to fit your body, but you need to allow a few days for the fittings. Jim Thompson is a well known store that sells silk garments and purses as well.  There is the main museum and also satellite stores in Bangkok’s biggest malls and I spotted one in the Phuket airport.  Chiang Mai’s Chinatown, which was located near Le Meridian and DusitD2 hotels is also a fun place to shop for food and inexpensive clothes and purses.  I picked up some pajama bottoms and tights for $1 each, and a couple of cosmetic purses, for a $1.50 each.   If you have the burning desire to try cockroaches and an assortment of other bugs, they are available there too, along with the delicious selection of fruit local to Thailand, such as the dragon fruit, passion fruit, and longan.

Tong from Trikaya Tours

Tong from Trikaya Tours

Tong from Trikiya Tours was my tour guide in Chiang Mai and he was outstanding!  We had such a fun morning together.  In addition to taking me to the local markets and shops, and to his friend’s home in the village to pick longan, he was extremely personable, knowledgeable and funny.  We used Trikaya Tours throughout the entire trip, as they have tour guides and drivers throughout Thailand.  We used the driver and guide in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Phuket.  I arranged with the owner, Pong, to work with them on my drive to and from Chiva Som.  After an incident where I left my wallet in a bathroom rest stop, the driver,Tan, and Pong, bent over backwards to help me.  You will not be in better hands while in Thailand.  Since they are based everywhere, you’ll only have to organize your trip with one company, even though you’ll probably be hopping around.  You can check out their website here:

For our last night in Chiang Mai, we stayed at the magnificent Dhara Dhevi.  Dhara Dhevi is more than a hotel.  It is a small village on over sixty acres.  While the hotel is fairly new, it is modeled after the ancient villages and is filed with antiques throughout the property.  This property is definitely for the high end traveler,  and I promise you won’t see another property like it in Chiang Mai.  The grounds are stunning and the rooms fit for a king!  The bathroom is as big as the bedroom and gives you the option of an indoor or outdoor shower room, and a jacuzzi.  Downstairs, there was a full kitchen and piano in my living room.   We managed to sneak in some time to go for a night swim in the huge pool, which is bigger than the standard 25 meter lap pool, to burn off some of the calories we consumed at the amazing multi course meal at their French restaurant.

Phuket at the early morning market

Phuket at the early morning market

Lastly, we flew south to Phuket for the last part of our trip.  We had seen the city of Bangkok and the northern beauty of Chiang Mai.  Now it was time for the beaches and the beautiful resort Paresa.  Affectionately known as heaven, they aren’t kidding.  Set atop a mountain, the views from every spot in this resort are breathtaking.  Miles and miles of the Andaman Sea can be seen from your private plunge pool or from inside your shower, which can be taken inside or outside.  Your bedroom sliding doors open onto the terrace with your plunge pool and lounge chairs.   The resort is secluded in the wealthiest area of Phuket, so while not directly on the beach, there is a complimentary shuttle that will take you to and from the beach.  Paresa is more than just a place to stay.  The general manager and the entire staff go out of their way to make sure your visit is a productive one, catered to your interests.

Paresa Cooking Class

Paresa Cooking Class

On premise, they offer one on one cooking classes in their top notch cooking facility.  Their infinity pool is beautiful and can be rented out for dinner during your stay.  That’s right…there are beds within the pool where you can have your private dinner overlooking the sea.   Chef Luca Mancini, originally from Italy, does an amazing job with both the Italian and Thai cuisine.  For dessert, we were treated to the most expensive and rarest coffee in the world, Black Ivory Coffee, made from elephant dung in Thailand.  It may not sound the most appetizing, but Blake Dinkin is the founder, and explained and demonstrated to us the intricate process of how each cup is made.

John Gray's Sea Canoes

John Gray’s Sea Canoe

A unique tour which should not be missed while staying at Paresa is a stroll through the morning market, which opens at 1am and closes at 9am (we went at 6am) and is mostly for the locals to buy their goods and food to sell later in the day.  We made merit with the monks and had a delicious dim sum breakfast at the oldest dim sum restaurant in Phuket, Boonrat, which is only open in the early hours as well.  Our tour ended with a stroll through Old Town with its beautiful Portuguese architecture and temples.  The tour was offered by Khiri Travel, a company that organizes off the beaten path tours for travelers throughout Thailand.  Personally, I prefer delving into the heart of a culture rather than doing all the typical touristy stops, and Khiri Travel will make sure you have that opportunity. In the afternoon, we had the opportunity to take advantage of Paresa’s spa, and you guessed it, another awesome Thai massage!

Boonrat Dim Sum; Phuket

Boonrat Dim Sum; Phuket

John Gray also offers a very fun way to explore the caves of the Andaman Sea.  You’ll board a boat which will take you out to sea, serve you lunch and an incredible dinner made with all natural ingredients, as he is  a big believer in foods that promote health and vitality.  You’ll stop at various spots and get in sea canoes (up to two per canoe) with your guide. You’ll see incredible stalagmites and stalactites, bats and gorgeous scenery as you’re out in nature; just you, the birds, and the sea.
As you can see with every region, comes a variety of experiences and cultures.  One consistency is the friendly people who are always looking forward to showing you the magic of their beautiful country. Whether it’s your first or tenth visit to Thailand, the country is constantly evolving, and ready to welcome you!